Out & About March 2017

brûlée (all desserts £5.50) and an unusual ‘mess’-type pudding with kiwi, mango and meringue, which was also lushly creamy and fresh at the same time. The wine list is well chosen – having both been to the Margaret River region in Western Australia we joke as we sit down that you rarely see this region’s wines on the menu. But lo, there is a delicious Margaret River Semillon which was just as it should be – peachy and full of sunny notes. After dinner, we sit at the snug bar for a final drink and conclude that Jonathan and his wife and staff have styled everything just right. This doesn’t feel like a faux English inn, it is a proper tavern, but with stylish touches and impressive food that doesn’t daunt. It’s not far out of Newbury town centre, it has plenty of parking and The Barn is becoming popular for weddings, which are limited to 20 per year to ensure a balance with the busy restaurant trade. So, though you might not have a horse to tie up outside or your own tankard ready to fill with ale, you’ll find proper old- fashioned hospitality, but brought bang up to date at the Hare and Hounds. I’d saddle up and get on down there when you can.

an apple and onion fritter, local Tutts Clump cider gravy and fresh vegetables. The pork is rolled into a perfect round and is meltingly soft surrounded by a sweet/ sharp shot of Tutts Clump cider-flavoured gravy. The apple and onion fritter is like an onion bhaji, an accompaniment Jonathan developed with his chef. Before our mains, we’d chosen tempura battered tiger prawns with a chilli ketchup, £7.25. The prawns were fresh-tasting in a mean crispy batter and the chilli ketchup was mild not hot. We also chose a board of pork and black pudding terrine with chicken liver and Armagnac paté, £6.75, which came with homemade piccalilli, real ale chutney and toasted bloomer. The piccalilli was crunchy and fresh, the pork and black pudding terrine was coarse and peppery in contrast with the smooth chicken liver pate. I could have done with another triangle of toast, but despite that it was a great

Hare & Hounds Hotel Bath Rd, Speen, Newbury RG14 1QY 01635 521152

www.hareandhoundshotel.net Top: roast pork shoulder with cider gravy. Bottom from left: tempura battered Tiger prawns, board of pork and black pudding terrine with chicken liver and Armagnac paté, 8oz rump steak cooked in a Bertha, crème brûlée

choice for a terrine-lover like me. We are now pretty full, but the

accommodating staff give us time to rest before bringing a rich and smooth crème

Photographs: Dijana Capan

25