Out & About May 2017

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the Riesling grape

Riesling is experiencing something of a resurgence and JAMES ALLEN has sourced some tasty recommendations from local wine merchants

Greetings everyone. This month I’m going to put a spotlight on a grape; the Riesling This wonderful variety makes a great variety of wines, from dry to sweet and even to sparkling. In Victorian London, the wines from the Moselle and the Rhine used to command a premium. Recently a tasting was held of ancient bottles of wine from Württemberg from the 1670s. Some were still more than drinkable and the best guesses were that these were made from Riesling. Literary records go back even further with references to the grape being made in the 1400s. Known mostly for wines from Germany, it is now grown worldwide, with particularly good examples coming from Australia and New Zealand. Riesling suffered owing to the craze for Liebfraumilch with which it was (wrongly) associated. But now, with some great vintages and some dedicated growers, it is making a storming comeback. In their youth, Riesling wines are fresh and zingy. As they age they develop a grapefruity, kerosene quality, which is much prized. Here are some great selections for Riesling to be found around Newbury:

Pauletts Riesling, 2011, Clare Valley, S. Australia Unusual to find a mature Riesling with seven years bottle age for such a keen price. A fantastic bargain. The cool breezes in the Clare Valley enable the grapes to ripen gradually and keep their freshness and balance. This 2011 wine shows the classic Germanic Riesling character, intense kiwi and very ripe tropical fruits, pungent almost. The palate has amazing clarity of flavour with a deft balance of sweet fruit and acidity. Classic stuff. Peter & Ulrich Dry Riesling, Mosel, 2016 At the other end of the spectrum we have a young Riesling with lovely lively fruity characteristics. The rich fruit flavours and refreshing acidity are perfectly balanced to match salads, fish or lightly-spiced meats. A real gem here, with notes of peach, apricot and ripe apple, its perfect for those who love German wine or are looking to discover something new. £11.99 per bottle Majestic Wines, Newbury £15.99 per bottle The Naked Grape, Hungerford

Hochheimer Riesling 2014, Domdechant Werner, Rhine From the wonderful south-facing slopes of the Rheingau comes this classic, this time showing the off-dry style. The Rheingau is a very traditional region, with stunning views and magnificent historic estates. The

Hochheim area, with its south facing slopes and chalky, mineral rich soil, is renowned for the outstanding quality of its Rieslings. Dr Franz Werner Michel is the seventh generation to head the Domdechant Werner estate, comprising a stylish manor house with surrounding vineyards overlooking the picturesque city of Mainz and the Rhein-Main landscape. Made purely from estate grown fruit, this Domdechant Werner Riesling Classic is off-dry in style, with a soft peach character backed by racy acidity. A perfect apéritif, it is a great partner for shellfish dishes or smoked salmon salad. £14.99 per bottle Laithwaites, Theale

2014 Picnic Riesling, Two Paddocks, Central Otago This just off-dry style of Riesling is a real delight and extremely more-ish. Bright, pale silver-lemon in colour, aromas are zesty, floral and mouth-watering. The palate is light in body, silky in texture and very refreshing. With a long, vivacious finish, this is perfect to drink at lunchtime, before a meal, or as a partner to Thai-style cooking. £14.95 Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Whitchurch

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