Out & About May 2017

More than a taste of Chile Now is the time to spring into a South American adventure and RICHARD LAKER gives you a taste of the perfect itinerary

L ocated at the bottom of South America, Chile extends 2,650 miles from southern Peru to the icy waters of Cape Horn and its diverse landscapes vary from the world’s driest desert, the Atacama, to the granite towers of Patagonia. On its southwestern coast tiny islands splinter into the Pacific, while 2,182 miles away lies its Polynesian satellite, Easter Island, one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world. Chile requires the longest direct flight in British Airways’ schedule but the 14 hours are well worth it. Over the years I’ve visited Chile throughout the seasons, travelling through most of its 39 degrees of latitude, and the country never fails to charm and amaze me with its many scenic wonders, enhanced by the generosity and warmth of the Chilean people. Arrive in Santiago during our northern hemisphere winter and you’ll find a delightful southern summer. An hour west of this cosmopolitan city is the Pacific Ocean, an hour south the winelands, and east takes you quickly to the Andes for

summer resorts or winter skiing. Forsaking the pleasures of Santiago on this trip I headed north with a two-hour flight straight to the Atacama Desert, one of the most unique and varied regions on the continent. Just a short drive from the airport is the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama where Awasi Atacama stands out from other hotels for its native architecture; a construction of adobe, wood and stone with thatched roofs. Immediately on arrival the stunning interior details and the warmth of the welcome are striking. Each room is assigned a private guide and vehicle and the menu of tours included makes a four or five-day stay essential. Within an hour I was exploring ‘downtown’ San Pedro with my guide. The Archaeological Museum here contains the eerie remains of lost civilisations including ancient mummies that have been preserved in the dry desert air. The museum is impressive and a good starting point for exploring the surrounding desert, supposedly the world’s

most arid region and renowned for its profound beauty – and this is where the guides of Awasi truly excel. Rising early at 4am when it’s close to freezing is not a pleasant prospect in most parts of the world, however, encouraged by my excellent guide Juanjo, the morning felt full of promise. I’ve travelled with dozens of guides over the years but Juanjo and his colleagues have a love for the Atacama which is as contagious as it is inspiring. We drove out of town through valleys and passes in the dark to be rewarded with the view of geysers bursting from the frozen earth at sunrise. The altiplano, or high plain, is bare of trees and myriad colours of iron ore and rust contrast in the glorious sunshine with the blues and greens of the springs and the brilliant white of the nearby salt flats. This is also home to the flocks of pink flamingos that made their debut ‘ballet’ performance so hilariously on the BBC series Planet Earth .

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