Out & About October 2017

OA restaurant review

The seafood don (£14) – donburi literally means ‘bowl’, and is a Japanese rice bowl dish of fish, meat, vegetables or other ingredients simmered together and served over rice – was a real highlight. Rice, beansprouts, onions, chilli and spring onions mingled with octopus, large prawns and spicy tiny shrimps, which punched above their weight flavour-wise. And they kept singing their sea song way after eating as the spices lingered on the tongue. A side dish of crispy fried squid was also another fishy high spot – a barely-there batter and meltingly-soft little rings of squid were scattered with hot chilli and spring onion and a squeeze of lime lifted it all. Our table neighbours – Paul from Newbury and Monica from Rutland – gave the verdict on their katsu curries (chicken, pork, salmon

transformation of Highclere Castle as general manager there too. Said George: “I want to give Newbury proper classic Japanese food. And I am using all my skills to do so. I am so pleased at how busy we have been.” I had spotted a version of Nobu’s black cod on the menu (one of my never-will-be-forgotten dishes) so should have guessed George had worked there. George and Adrian is a pairing that works so well and, as said before, that has seen this latest addition to the food scene in Newbury packed from day one. Check it out when you can and arigato very much, Adrian and George, and kon do ma ta ki masa – or, I will be back.

Tables are of medium dark wood, the ceilings are high and mirrors and glass shelves are cleverly placed to make the main dining area more spacious. A sushi station, with a chef, provides something to look at while you await your food, ordered from a tablet and with a button to call for service if you need it (we pressed erroneously only once). There is a lunchtime menu, which is mostly bento boxes around £12, but there are a few more dishes on it too. The main à la carte menu features chef’s specials, teppanyaki, grill, katsu and more. A sushi and tempura bento box came with prawn and vegetable tempura – crispy bubbles of batter giving way to the freshest of sweet prawns, carrots, fine green beans and peppers.

Pictures: Dijana Capan

Kamo Misoyaki

Bento

or pumpkin all around £14) as they spotted us ogling the dishes when they arrived table-side, and it was all good. The dessert list is small, but we went for a matcha ice cream and a coconut mochi (both £4). The matcha was a deep green and definitely for green tea fans – I am not one, so I preferred my coconut ice cream covered in a doughy skin, almost like a gyoza dough. We failed you on the sake front I am afraid as we spotted a Chevanceau white wine, a Sauvignon Blanc, which was simply delicious at £18. But sake is definitely available. We chatted to head chef George Neil and general manager Adrian Wiley after our meal and the reasons why Arigato scores so well for food and welcome became clear. George trained in Japan and has worked in eminent restaurants such as Nobu, Donnington Grove, Parasampia and Stanton House. Adrian, meanwhile, was instrumental in the

There were a couple of thick slices of fresh salmon complemented by seaweed, mouli and carrot salad, a dollop of hot wasabi (if you’re used to sushi chains, be warned this is fiery), and sliced pickled ginger, some spicy tuna rolls rolled in wasabi caviar and a scorchy powder – one of our favourites – and a bowl of smoky miso soup and some fresh fruit for dessert. Simple nigiri (£3.50 for two salmon, £4 for two tuna) was generous, as it should be – thick and luscious slices of salmon and almost ruby red tuna sat atop perfect sushi rice with just the right amount of vinegar and texture. For mains, we had duck glazed in red miso (Kamo Misoyaki, £14) – the miso added firmness as well as flavour. This came with what the menu called mixed greens and sliced and crisped lotus chips. In fact, the greens were rocket leaves and green beans dressed in an almost nutty, creamy and spicy dressing which went perfectly with the soft, plump slices of duck.

Salmon nigiri