Out & About October 2017

OA food & drink

Rabat stew The central heating is back on, the curtains are drawn and the nights are longer. Time for some comforting spicy Moroccan fish stew says SIMON RHODES

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FISH TAGINE

Which brings me on to my next revelation – Morocco is not a country you immediately think of for fish. However, despite its traditional cuisine of tagines of lamb and goat, it also has some inspiring fish dishes that are relatively unknown here in the UK. Moroccan dishes are well spiced, which doesn’t necessarily mean hot, but have many different flavours and spices such as fennel and saffron. Harissa, which is traditionally a Tunisian chilli pepper paste, is also often used for North African recipes and works very well with fish. I expect by the time you are reading this coats and umbrellas will definitely be needed. Oh well, fish stew it is then.

As I am writing this, the summer is well and truly over and what a changeable season it was. In June, the temperature notched up to 30°C and all of a sudden it seemed that the good old UK was a completely different country, somewhere warm and exotic. Then July and August brought us back down to earth with a bump. But we do all seem more relaxed when the sun is out. We go all mediterranean when the weather is similar to that in Spain, southern France and even Africa – OK – North Africa maybe. This brings me nicely on to Morocco. Morocco has a population of more than 33.8 million and an area of 172,410 square miles. Its capital is Rabat, and the largest city is Casablanca. Other major cities include Marrakesh, Tangier, Tetouan, Fes, Safi, Kenitra, and Nador.

To make a simple fish tagine you need some good firm fish that can take on big flavours, such as monkfish or hake and maybe huss on the bone. Season and dust the fish with flour. Then heat some olive oil in a pan and stir in some diced onions, chilli, ginger, cumin, paprika, fennel seeds and a few saffron strands or a tsp of turmeric until soft. Add a tin of chopped tomatoes, some tomato purée and some fish stock, season and simmer in a tagine or covered pan for half-an-hour. Then add a quartered fennel bulb and simmer for another 30-40 minutes until the fennel is tender. Add the fish and again simmer for 10-15 minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Finally, add some chopped coriander and preserved lemon slices. Serve with some flavoured couscous or maybe some gingered sweet potato mash.

Its currency is the Dirham, which currently has an exchange rate of 12.5 Dirhams to the UK £ sterling. Totally irrelevant information unless you happen to have just booked a holiday there, but might come in handy at a local pub quiz.

Simon Rhodes owns: The Lobster Pot Fishmongers. Cobbs Farmshop, Bath Road, Hungerford, Berkshire RG17 0SP Telephone: 01488 686770

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