Out & About September 2017

OA food & drink

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tipples

As there is a War and Peace article in the magazine this month (see p24), JAMES ALLEN thought he’d givie his column a Russian twist... and discovered some recurring themes in Russian tastes – vodka and sweet wines being among the favourites

F irstly I’m going to look at two lesser-known, stunning sweet wines, Tokay (or Tokaji) and Constantia, both of which have had, deservedly, a renaissance in the last couple of decades, and both of which were very popular in the Russian Imperial court. Tokay declined in quality after 1918 with the disappearance of the Russian and Austrian empires – and the rich clientele – and then yet further under communist rule. Happily a new generation of wine-makers have now revived this terrific wine. Dobogó `Mylitta` Noble Late Harvest Tokaji, 2012

2008 Royal Tokaji Essencia Essencia is the richest and rarest of all Hungarian Tokaji wines made from the juice naturally oozing out of the ripe grapes with no pressing. Typically, this free- run juice takes six to eight years to complete its fermentation to less than three per cent alcohol. Essencia can reach 85 per cent residual sugar. Essencia wine is legendary. Deep gold colour with a hint of amber.

Tovaritch, Russian Vodka The world’s most awarded Vodka apparently, this pure spirit is distilled five times from Russian grain and it’s gluten-free. Fantastic by the shot, Tovaritch also makes a staggeringly good Vodka Martini. £18.99 from the Naked Grape, Hungerford Stolichnaya, Russian Vodka Stolichnaya’s roots are Russian, with the brand launched in the early 20th century, taking its name from ‘stolitsa’ (capital city). Stolichnaya is a classically-styled, exceptionally smooth vodka and is crystal-clear in colour with marshmallow, mineral and mild fruit peel aromas. A soft and smooth, medium-bodied palate with pastry frosting, talc and citrus rind flavours. Finishes with a clean, lightly sweet, sugar dust, wet straw and balanced pepper fade. £18.45 from Haynes Hanson & Clarke, Whitchurch Louis Roederer Crystal Louis Roederer’s top-end champagne is not only the best of the best, but also has a fascinating birth, all down to one paranoid Tsar. Tsar Alexander II of Russia was terrified of being assassinated even when drinking champagne. When holding a feast in 1876, he requested his champagne be clear so he could see the colour of the wine. He also insisted that the bottle be flat bottomed so no bombs could be hidden in the dimple. These are traditions that have continued to this day and can still be found on the 2009 vintage currently available. A truly incredible champagne that will make you the toast of the evening, if not the Czar. As for Alexander II himself, despite all his efforts, he was still assassinated in 1881. £175 from Majestic Wine, Newbury

Fresh, ripe peach on the nose with complex honeyed, spicy, ginger notes and background presence of botrytis. Full, but graceful to taste, intensely concentrated, rich and sweet, balanced with taunt acidity. Stunning! It was so highly-prized that the Czar of Russia kept a detachment of soldiers in Hungary purely to bring the latest vintage safely back to St Petersburg. £390 per bottle from Laithwaites, Theale Vin de Constance 2013 Klein Constantia – South Africa ‘ From these Elysian fields used to come one of the very greatest wines in the world – the legendary Constantia ’, writes Hugh Johnson. ‘ Constantia was bought by European courts in the early 19th century in preference to Yquem, Tokay, Madeira… ’ Indeed this was one of Catherine the Great’s top tipples. From vineyards originally planted in 1685 by Dutch settlers, this wine was really popular in Victorian times, but the vineyards were completely wiped out by phylloxera disease in 1865. It was only in 1985 that the vineyards were revived and wine made again. Bright and gold in appearance with aromas of citrus marmalade and frangipani abundant on the nose. The palate is full-bodied and complex. The wine concludes with a long, spicy and grippy finish. £52 from Grapesmith, Hungerford

This delightfully sweet Tokaji is pale gold in the glass, with dominant aromas of blossom and honey, accompanied by refreshing citrus notes. The palate is deeper and more complex; a myriad of different apricot varieties and flowers. Made from Aszu-quality grapes (late-picked grapes with Noble Rot) but with less barrel and bottle age, creating a lovely, fresher touch. £20.95 from Innathome, Newbury

Tokaji Aszü 5 Puttonyos, Szepsy-Dulo 2005 A wine with a rich, honeyed, raisin flavour with a long, lingering finish. This has excellent bottle age and for those liking mature wines this is something of a bargain. £17.95 from Haynes Hanson & Clark, Whitchurch

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