Out & About Spring 2018

Jerusalem artichoke, smoked cauliflower, red kale, brown butter and apple or a handsome beef fillet with Roscoffe onions and black garlic? Venison pavé and shank with smoked potato? We opt for the pork loin, black pudding, chard, fennel, parsley root and crackling (£19). The crackling was a stick of golden and loud-enough-to-hear-you- eat-it perfect and the two loins were blushing pink in the middle. The dish gave me a first and a best. It was my first try at parsley root, which people often mistake for parsnip. I think parsley root has a fresher smell and taste, but it is similar. But the stand-out was Henry’s home-made black pudding – sweet and savoury at the same time, it had a hint of apple and, unusually, raisins steeped in jasmine tea. Being Scottish I’ve eaten a fair amount of black pudding, but this was the best I’ve tasted. The other main was the cod, red pepper bisque, charred leek, clams, sea vegetables and caper purée (£22). Joe poured the bisque on to the dish at the table and it was well worth the theatre – roasted crab bones added amazing depth and the pepper simply gave sweetness. The charred leek was declared amazing. The desserts all tempted us (and at £7.50 each we were even more encouraged), but we settled on a pineapple tarte tatin with salted cashews and vanilla ice cream and a white chocolate parfait with textures of rhubarb and a ginger crumb. Rarely is dessert ever my stand-out dish on a menu, but the crispy pastry topped with sticky pineapple, pineapple gel and the most vanilla of vanilla ice creams sounds simple, but was absolutely fantastic. Meanwhile, the parfait had just hints of white chocolate, the rhubarb was not too sweet and there were gels and meringue, with punchy ginger crumb for crunch. Unfortunately, our delicious bottle of Willy Willy, an Australian shiraz, will not give you a chance for smutty jokes, as it is being replaced on the wine list soon (and by the way a willy willy is a whirlwind in Aussie). As we waited for a sharing cheese plate (Jersey Sharpen brie, Beauville Bleu and Wookey Hole Cheddar with a lavash cracker, pear chutney and scorched apple slices) this was when some of the customers, including one table of three local chefs and a hotel manager, begged us jokingly to keep shtum about Henry&Joe’s. We got it. Henry & Joe’s is just the kind of place Newbury needs and will appreciate – a great atmosphere, even better food and wallet-friendly. And you are supporting two young men whose enthusiasm and expertise is way beyond their years. So that’s why you are getting to hear about it. And you know what? Pass it on.

ash-baked beetroot

pork loin

rhubarb parfait

Henry & Joe’s, 17 Cheap Street, Newbury, RG14 5DD 01635 581751

www.henryandjoes.co.uk Info@henryandjoes.co.uk Opening times: Wednesday to Saturday 12noon-2.30pm. 6pm-9.30pm

Pictures: Dijana Capan

Out&About restaurant review

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