Out & About Summer 2019

The Red House, Marsh Benham RESTAURANT REVIEW

SAMANTHA WHITTAKER enjoys a light lunch in the idyllic country setting of The Red House

N ot many sights are especially when the trees are full of fresh green leaves and the sun is shining. The Red House sits next to the level crossing at Marsh Benham and, as you walk from the car park into the pub more joyous than the Berkshire countryside,

John, the manager, invited us to have a drink in the garden before we sat at our table, but we were hungry and headed straight into the restaurant. I enjoyed a glass of light, chilled Côtes de Provence rosé (£9.50) while we studied the menus, and we drank sparkling water with our meal. The Red House has the ideal combination of options, divided between à la carte, set lunch menu and a specials board.

garden, it’s hard to believe you’re just a stone’s throw from the A4. There are plenty of seats outside for good-weather dining, in sun or shade; alternatively, you can choose the airy bar with its ample seating or the more formal – but equally welcoming – restaurant. Dogs are welcome in the garden and bar, which is wonderful if you’ve been for a walk along the nearby Kennet & Avon Canal with your canine companion. My friend Mandy Boston and I visited on a sunny Thursday and were delighted to walk into a friendly, buzzy atmosphere. Guests included couples, small groups, individuals at the bar and a large, exuberant group of friends celebrating together. The setting is in keeping with a traditional English pub, but has incorporated a light, airy openness – you don’t get the identikit feeling of the chain gastropubs.

There is also a magnificent gluten- and dairy-free menu, comprising four starters/light dishes, nine mains, four desserts and a cheese board. You don’t feel pressured to have a large meal, or several courses, if all you’re after is a lighter dish. Mandy chose the small portion of crispy halloumi (£7.75) to start: breaded, fried halloumi fingers served with tzatziki and homemade smoked tomato chutney. The cheese was fried to perfection – crisp on the outside but softly chewy on the inside – and the dips provided the perfect zing. I started with a perennial favourite, tomato soup (£6.50), which was served with two slices of bread. Sometimes restaurants fall down on the simpler dishes, but this soup was hot and delicious, full of flavour and not acidic.

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O&A SUMMER 2019