Out & About Summer 2021

RESTAURANT REVIEW

HILARY SCOTT receives a warm welcome at this pretty country pub The White Hart Inn

I t really doesn’t matter how lovely your pub is and how pioneering – the pandemic has been a real challenge for hospitality. Owner of the White Hart Inn Stella Coulthurst is proud of how she’s adapted to the changes – but she still believes we’ve a long way to go. The White Hart Inn is a delightful pub with rooms – and a hostelry has been on this site in Hamstead Marshall for more than 400 years. Stella took it over in 2011 when it was derelict and it’s been a challenging project. “If you look at the walls,” says Stella, “you’ll see every one has probably been an outside wall at some point!” Those walls are painted a delicate Farrow and Ball grey with splashes of colour in the Roman blinds. It is cosy with its fires (on in May of course due to the ghastly weather that month!) and pretty with wooden floors, plenty of candles burning and country prints on the walls. There are nine individually styled bedrooms and The White Hart’s stunning rural location makes it an ideal venue for post-lockdown change of scenery – whether you’re coming from across the country or just around the corner, The White Hart Inn feels like a world away from everything. The menu is full of variety – and there are specials. On the day we visited the pie was Steak and Ale (£14.50) and the soup Celeriac and Apple (£6).

‘A generous portion, but so good I could have eaten twice over’

We began with Cured Salmon (£8.50) – thick slabs of rosy beetroot and horseradish cured salmon served with a slick of horseradish sauce, granary toast and some dressed peppery watercress A squeeze of lemon brought out the flavour of the salmon and the toast was good to mop up the drizzled olive oil and remains of the horseradish sauce. A generous portion, but so good I could have eaten twice over. Dijana had the Crispy Cauliflower (£6) – crispy cumin spiced cauliflower florets with a labneh and tahini dressing. The cumin lent a sweetness rather than heat to the cauliflower and the dressing had a hint of sweetness too. The cauliflower was cooked just right and had a good bite to it. We’d opened a bottle of Coral do Mar, a Spanish albarino at £30 which was just right for our starters and what was to come.

White Hart owner Stella Coulthurst

Mains for me were fish again – this time Thai Marinated Monkfish (£21). The monkfish tails had been marinated in mild Thai spices and served with a Thai salad and Thai apple dressing. The monkfish tails were big and plump and mild, but delicious. The julienne salad was sweet and crunchy with a hint of ginger. This was a light dish – no carbs here. Dijana’s carbs more than made up for that! She had one of the “White Harty”

Buttermilk panacotta

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O&A SUMMER 2021