Out & About Winter 2019

RESTAURANT REVIEW

The Swan, Streatley

HILARY SCOTT eases into the newly-refurbished establishment over-looking the Thames

T o those who’ve passed the Swan at Streatley during its refurb and worried that this grand old landmark would change beyond recognition, fear not. For those fretting about losing those delightful views of the Thames, worry not. And for those who hate change – well, maybe fear a little. The Swan has reinvented itself as a better, slicker more modern establishment. The rooms are contemporary but still comfortable, the views from the windows enhanced and the food and beverage offering has adopted the Coppa Club brand with all the advantages that brings. The Coppa Club locally is at sister hotel The Great House in Sonning and, of course, in Henley and Maidenhead. The menus nod at modern eating with nibble sections, small plates and sharing platters, mains and grills,

complaint about taste at all, simply an observance that the sourdough is not mentioned on the menu. My Kiln smoked salmon (£5.95) sat above a mustardy remoulade and had gratings of lemon zest – and the menu mentioned the sourdough, so I was prepared. This was lovely – really smoky salmon, heat from the remoulade and citrussy. For mains I chose the Corn Fed Chicken (£12.95) which came dribbled with lemon and rosemary juices, house slaw and skinny fries. You could not have cooked the tasty thighs better as they were oozing with moistness. Again, perhaps the menu should say the slaw is also skinny with a yogurt, lemon and mint dressing. Dijana had the Trout on the Plancha (£14.95) – a huge piece of, again, perfectly cooked trout. You cannot fault the cooking of meat and fish here.

pizza, pasta and not forgetting tea and scones. Sides are enhanced with contemporary flavours – aubergines glazed with miso for example, or cavolo nero with garlic and chilli. We started with the Seared King Prawns (£6.95) – a heap of large plump prawns with garlic, lemon, chilli and olive oil. My dining partner Dijana loved the flavours and the juicy shellfish. Her only complaint was they sat on a slice of sourdough which soaked all the juices up – and it wasn’t a

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